JULY 24, 2018
VICARIOUS SAILING
Hi Barry,
Enough
crew showed for us to go out. Don and Mike were on board and we picked up a
hitchhiker at Aldo’s. Gunter waved us over and jumped on board. There was a big
South swell and Tusitalia was parked at the harbor mouth but decided to turn
back. We waited until the set passed and motored out without problem. Nidaros
2, Avatar and Kicks joined us. A 27 came out to play as well. We had a little
trouble setting the mark. As Don was streaming it, he caught a huge kelp patty
and had to let go. There were kelp patties all over the place torn up by the
swells. We called a delay and came back to pick it up. Of course the kelp
fouled our prop and we had to back down to free it. Finally got the mark set
for a good East breeze. We called Bravo 2; Start, SC3, Black’s, finish. We had
the Start buoy end and the other boats were spread out down the line toward the
pin. Avatar and Nidaros tacked ahead of us, Mike thought we had better wind
inside and we actually went a little way into the kelp before tacking out. The
current kept us from picking any kelp up. When we tacked out, we tacked back as
soon as we could clear the kelp field. The wind was better inside as predicted
for an Easterly, but the combined South swell, left over NW wind waves and a
building Easterly chop slowed us down. It was like being in a jeweler’s
cleaning tank. We twisted the sails off a bit and “powered up.” When we tacked
near the lay line, Avatar passed clear ahead and we almost had to duck Nidaros.
After rounding, Mike took us in just a little way. Again, it was to get better
breeze. We set the pole and soon passed Nidaros. Mike asked if we could see the
mark. I took a look and we were dead on it! Avatar got there first and we
hardened up and headed straight for the Finish. With the wind at about 120 all
the usual angles were changed. The course was much easier. Avatar was ahead of
us. Have to see the RaceQ track to find out if we got them on corrected. We
were lucky and got in between sets without having to wait. I put the boat in
bow first again as there was a lot of surge. It was a beautiful evening. Gunter
said he had a lot of fun. We did, however, have to explain what a winch was and
how to use it. Thanks for the opportunity to sail your boat.
Stefan
Thanks Stefan
for the excellent report and for taking care of my boat.
Race QS
shows Avatar finishing at 46:05, Pair a Dice 47.52, Nidaros II 49:22 and Kicks
56:33. All times are elapsed time and
the length of the course was 3.04 miles.
WAVES:
With the
harbor office issuing warnings about large swells at the harbor entrance, I
think it is good to discuss waves. After
years of surfing, I have had a lot of experience in dealing with waves.
Most
waves we deal with are storm generated.
The size of the swell is determined by the strength of the wind and the
amount of area the storm covers. During
our summer months, a lot of our waves are generated by storms in the Southern
ocean since it is winter in the south.
What is so important for us in the Santa Cruz Harbor is that our harbor
faces due south so all of the swell energy is directed straight up the harbor.
The storm
generated swells travel away from the storm and as they travel over a large
distance, will organize their energy into sets.
If the storm is a long distance away, like New Zealand the characteristics
of the sets will be well defined.
Characteristics to watch for are time between sets and which waves are
the biggest in the set. A swell coming from New Zealand often will have 20-30
minutes between sets, allowing easy exit from the harbor and easy entry into
the harbor. I compare it to crossing a street: you don’t step off the curb with
cars speeding toward you and it is better to not transit the harbor entrance
with big waves breaking. Always wait for “traffic” to clear. The trained eye
can definitely see sets approaching from off shore. Winter
waves are a lot different, with sets a lot closer together with the surfers
dream: corduroy to the horizon!
One other
consideration is what causes a wave to break.
Obviously, it is the shallower water near shore. As waves travel toward
shore, the bottom part of the wave slows down due to friction with the bottom
and the upper part of the wave continues at a faster pace causing the top of
the wave to cascade down the face and “break”. Waves will break in 1.3 times their
wave height. This is a convenient way to
see how deep it is where waves are breaking.
Granted a 3 foot wave breaking in 4 feet of water will just
crumble down the face in what surfers would call a “mushburger” without much
energy.
When you get a wave with a lot of energy, travelling over
long distances in very deep water that suddenly meets a very shallow bottom,
you get a very powerful wave where the crest pitches out and forms a tube. Surfers describe these waves as breaking “Top
to Bottom”. The top of the wave pitches
over clear to the bottom of the wave in a “totally tubular” way. These waves
are very powerful and are the types of waves that accomplished surfers crave.
To summarize:
· > RESPECT THE SURF, NEVER LEAVE OR ENTER THE
HARBOR WITHOUT PAYING ATTENTION. SURFERS SAY "NEVER TURN YOUR BACK ON THE OCEAN".
· > CHECK THE HARBOR WEBSITE FOR THE LATEST SOUNDING
MAP OF THE HARBOR
· >THOUGH THE WATER MAY BE DEEP ENOUGH FOR YOUR
KEEL, YOU DO NOT WANT TO SLAM DOWN THE FACE OR OVER THE BACK OF A WAVE AND
BOUNCE OFF THE BOTTOM
· >IF CATCHING A WAVE IN THE HARBOR, STEER STRAIGHT
DOWN THE FACE OF THE WAVE IF POSSIBLE (SET UP FOR THIS IN ADVANCE).
· >TIME THE SETS FOR SAFE EXIT AND RETURN TO THE
HARBOR.
> >ALWAYS CONSIDER THE STATE OF THE TIDE. A SWELL CAN BREAK WITH LITTLE POWER ON A HIGH TIDE AND TURN INTO A GRINDING FREIGHT TRAIN AT LOW TIDE.
> >ALWAYS CONSIDER THE STATE OF THE TIDE. A SWELL CAN BREAK WITH LITTLE POWER ON A HIGH TIDE AND TURN INTO A GRINDING FREIGHT TRAIN AT LOW TIDE.
· >MY PERSONAL RULE: IF THERE IS A 5% CHANCE OF
CRASHING IN THE HARBOR ENTRANCE (EVEN WITH TIMING THE SETS PROPERLY) WAIT FOR A
BETTER DAY. THERE HAVE BEEN TIMES I HAVE CHOSEN TO NOT GO OUT.
I will see you next Tuesday.
Barry Keeler
Sailing Pair a Dice